Bob's Blog

Connecting Columns

Question on decorative columns

“the directions provided with the columns appear to be for a load bearing application, without internal posts.”

Correct, These columns are designed to be load bearing, but our engineering does not allow connecting direct to the column.  You will have a 3″ post in the center of the column to carry the load of the cover.  Basically the cover will be attached to the 3″ posts just like a standard post application and the column will be slipped over the post to be an architectural element of the design.

When we design columns with a cover we always include a “double header” design.  This looks better than using the standard single header and matches up with the column cap much better. 

We also don’t like the connecting instructions that come with the columns. The suggest using small “L” brackets and screwing into the column and into the concrete.  This is not a good connection and I have seen many columns crack when attached like this.

I like to drill 1/4″ hole, four sides of the column (low enough so the base will cover it) and use four long sheet metal screws screwed into the 3″ post to hold the column in place.  At the top, four screws in the cap, each corner, to the header holds it there. I will also add expanding foam at the top and bottom of the column, this really locks it in. Be careful not to use too much, once I came back the next day after “foaming” the column and it had raised it 2″!!

Below is a page out of the engineering. 

Cleaning Alumawood

Amerimax aluminum products are easy to maintain. Generally, normal rainfall is sufficient to keep its appearance clean. If cleaning is required, we recommend the following steps. Particular attention should be given to areas under eaves, porches, awnings, and other overhangs that have limited exposure to the natural cleansing effect of rainfall.1) For moderate dirt – An occasional washing with clear water using a garden hose and soft-bristled brush is recommended (a long-handled, car-washing brush is ideal for this purpose).2) For a heavier dirt accumulation – Wash in the manner indicated above, but use the following solution:1/3 cup detergent (e.g. Tide®)2/3 cup trisodium phosphate (e.g. Soilax®)1 gallon water3) Mildew accumulation – Mildew can collect on surfaces of all types of building products and is often evident on surfaces that have not been properly maintained. Normally, mildew will appear as black spots. Mildew is easy to remove by using the following cleaning solution:1/3 cup detergent (e.g. Tide®)2/3 cup trisodium phosphate (e.g. Soilax®)1 quart sodium hypochloride 5% solution (e.g. Clorox®)3 quarts water4) Environmental black streaking – Black streaking can also collect on the surface of a structure. Black streaking can be removed by using Gutter Zap 4, which can be purchased from Alumawood.com5) Caulking compounds, tar, etc. – Use mineral spirits in reasonable amounts, apply directly to foreign substance. Rinse the area thoroughly with water immediately after cleaning.

Post Spacing and Overhangs

We have had many inquires regarding post spacing for our Alumawood patio covers. You may find the post spacing in the engineering on the “Resources” page at alumawood.com.

The maximum post spacing for an Alumawood patio cover varies depending on many factors. The projection of the cover, the overhang, the type of cover, the type of header being used, the snow and wind loads all effect the post spacing.

In the engineering the “Tributary Width” is used to calculate post spans, footing size gauges of aluminum needed, post type, etc. To calculate the Trib width you may use the chart found in the engineering on sheet 3 of 21 for the Newport (solid) or sheet 3 of 9 for the Laguna (lattice). Simply find your overall projection (that runs across the top of the chart) and the desired overhang past the posts and header (running down the left side of the chart) and find where they intersect on the chart, this is your “Trib Width”.

Once you find your Trib Width you go the the chart with your snow (or live) load, wind load and type of header. Standard covers are 10lb snow load and 90 mph wind load with a 0.042 x 3″ x 8″ box beam. Find this chart, find your trib width and your maximum post spacing is to the right of it.

You will find that many times, with the maximum post spacing, you will not need to set the post that far apart to work for your cover. You will have some “leeway” in placing your posts, just stay within the maximum post spans

You will also have leeway in determining the side overhang. This can never be more than 25% of the maximum post span. A 20′ post span can have a 5′ side overhang, whereas a 4′ post span will have only a 1′ side overhang.

Remember to take into account the aesthetics of your cover when determining the post placement of your Alumawood patio cover. The decorative Corbel and Scalloped ends look better with a 18″ overhang. If you are using large columns you may want even a 24″ overhang. Check out our picture gallery and notice some of the different overhangs.

Above – side overhang too short, projection too big?

Above – side overhang good, overhang (projection) too short

Above – nice balance of overhangs

Regards, Robert Pinnell
contact@alumawood.com
1-888-alumawood (258-6296)
www.alumawood.com

Clear Tops

Can Alumawood be used as framing and support for a glass-roofed patio cover?                                                                            

We do not have engineering for that type of application.  We do have various live/snow loads available. If you know the load per sq. ft. of the glass top, we may be able to help you.  You will also need to take into consideration the snow load for your area.                                                                                                                                                                                                      

We sell a product called AlumaVue. You may get a quote and order it now if you like at DIYpatio.com  The “AlumaVue Trellis System” consists of polycarbonate panels that go on top of an existing cover or our Alumawood product. 

The Alumavue panels come in clear, 50% and 75% tinted.  Take a look at those products to determine which best suits your needs..  The AlumaVue complete kits are approximately $26.00 per sq. ft. and the AlumaVue Trellis Panels are $18.00 per sq. ft.                                            

   -Regards, Robert Pinnellcontact@alumawood.com1-888-alumawood (258-6296)www.alumawood.com

Wood Ledger boards

Hello,

I’m very interested in your DIY kit, but I do have a question. I saw the following comment on your website: “All of our DIY Kits come with all the material and hardware you will need to do the installation yourself. All you will need to provide is the labor and the tools”However, when I looked your installation instructions, the very first step was for installing a ledger board, which I’ll need. It gave a suggestion on what type of wood to use, which implied to me that it was not included in the kit. Which is correct? Does the kit come with all the material I’ll need or not?Thank you,K.D.Thank you for a great questionMany of the Lattice covers do not need a ledger board (ones attached to the fascia board and ones attached to the house where each rafter hanger can be bolted to solid wood @ 24″ on center, such as into a header over large windows or second floor joists) The Newport covers (solid) do not need ledger boards at all as their “Roll Form Hanger” is continous and lag bolts can be put anywhere needed to hit solid wood, usually every 16″.One option on the “Quick Quote” is “with ledger board” and yes you do supply the wood part of it. We could ship it but it would cost more for shipping than the price of the 2×8 board. If you need it shipped, we can arrange this for you. We provide an Alumawood wrap to cover the ledger board. There are other options besides the 2×8 ledger board, to see more options look at the other blogs on “Ledger Boards”.http://www.alumawood.com/blog/tip-ideas/wood-ledger-boards/Caulking comes with the solid covers. The ledger board should be caulked also, but we do not send caulking with a Lattice covers.  You will buy the caulking, lag bolts and ledger board if indeed you need a ledger board. All the other materials, hardware and fasteners are provided.Thank you again, Bob

Flush mounting light fixtures

Here is a question we received about lighting an Alumawood patio cover:I have a quick question. I want to put lights up on my post. My question is, do I make holes on the post for boxes, or a hole just be enough to run the electrical cable? Any information you have would be great.Thank you for your interest in Alumawood.First let me add a disclaimer and word of caution here. The running of electrical can be a very dangerous undertaking, even for a professional electrician. (that’s why they are so expensive) If you run the wrong type of wiring, wrong gauge, connect the wires wrong, etc…., someone could get hurt or even killed. That is why most cities and countieshave requirements for permits and inspections for electrical and many types ofconstruction work, for your safety and the safety of others. Actually I believe it was the insurance companies who got the first electrical buildings codes written and enforced, not really for your safety but for the safety of their profits!The following ideas are for the electrical contractor who may have particular questions regarding Alumawood. As always, check with your local building codes before beginning any work.  Now to the question. Usually an electrical box will be flush mounted (in the wall, post or whatever) This makes it a bit more difficult running the wiring on a finished product, like Alumawood but usually comes out with a cleaner look.You will need to “pre-wire” as much as possible. Route your wiring inside as much of the Alumawood as possible. Come out of the source, usually at the house and into an Alumawood rafter (for lattice) or into the roof pans (for solid). You may want a light switch here or you may be running off an existing switched circuit. You can then run the wire out to the header, along the inside of the header to the posts you will be mounting the lights to. You can gain access to the rafters and header by removing the Alumawood caps. After removing and replacing the caps a small screw in the top of them or a drop of glue will keep them from falling off or someone getting in there and accessing the wiring. Use an electricians “fish line” to get from one end of the header to the other . Any holes punched in the Alumawood for wiring to pass through should have some type of protective covering in place so the wire does not come in contact with any sharp metal edges. Also any splices in the wiring must be accessible as per code.Run your wiring into the light box, leaving extra to make the connection to your fixture. Secure the wiring to the box as per code and then put the box in the post and secure. You should now be able to mount your light fixture. Keep in mind the material you aremounting to and do not mount anything too heavy.We also offer “Permatrax” lighting systems. This is a “strip” lighting system and looks great on the Alumawood covers. “Permatraxx” is a low voltage lighting system, much safer for an unlicensed electrician to install. You may order them at alumawood.com along with your Alumawood cover. Just note it in the comments section Check out diypatio.com for more information or ordering them seperately. 

Ledger Boards

Question:

We are specifying your product on a current project, and wanted to know if Alumawood makes a structural ledger piece that can be fastened to the exterior wall to support a trellis structure?

Answer:

No, we do not make the structural part of the ledger.

You will need to use a sealed (primed and painted) wood 2×6 or 2×8. Recess the lag bolts into the wood ledger so they are flush and caulk around it the entire ledger board. You can then cover the wood ledger with an Alumawood ledger wrap. The Alumawood rafter hangers will hold the ledger wrap on. The only thing you will have to do is leave an extra 1-1/2″ at the end of the ledger board to cut and fold over the end.

Another option is to use an Alumawood 2×6 or 3×8 and fill it with wood. This then can be mounted to the wall. The nice thing about this application is we do have end caps that can be used giving it a nicer finish than the folder over ledger wrap. The problem with this is you will see your lag bolts that mount it to the wall.

There is one more option, more work, but the best results. Use the 2×6 or 3×8 Alumawood piece with the end caps as in the above application but rip the Alumawood to make a “C” shaped ledger wrap. This way you can still recess the lag bolts so they won’t be seen and you can use the Alumawood end caps to finish it off.

Well there you go, I hope this was a help to you and good luck with your project. As always you may email any questions to us at alumawood.com, send them to info@alumawood.com.

Regards, Robert

Crown Molding

One very nice and custom option for the solid Newport cover is to delete the Alumawood “rafter tails” and install a PVC or other exterior grade crown molding. Crown molding is available from local hardware or lumber supply stores.

This crown molding was attached through the back side of the Alumawood 2×6 fascias with long screws, an exterior grade construction adhesive was also used.  Paint codes are available from alumawood.com  to match all existing Alumawood covers.

Another option not used in this picture is to delete the down spouts and use Alumawood scuppers.  With the scupper option you don’t have the down spout conflicting with the elegant round columns.

Who’s product is better?

This is a recent email we received at alumawood.com

Dear Alumawood.com,

We recently were given a salespitch by your competition – the U— guys.
Some of the main points they made were:

Kynar vs. Polyester – they said their Kynar was superior in fade resistance,
cleanability and that your polyester will chalk.

  Amerimax (the manufacturer of Alumawood) has done some tests with The U—-L—— product and found it was coated with polyester, not Kynar!! 

Kynar is a good product, but is more expensive.  We use a silicone-polyester paint that is a great product. You may notice a bit of fading with the Adobe color after 5-10 years, all the other, lighter colors are fine.

C-channel wall hanger vs. the hinged type – they said their hinged type was
superior in that it allowed movement in the structure, that the foam in the
hinged type made the structure quieter, and that you use the C-channel which
is more likely to pull away from the wall and create problems.

We also have a “hinged” type hanger, we use this for eave mounts that are at a steeper pitch.  You can use this (if you like)  but we have never had problems with the c-channel pulling away from the wall

Thickness of the aluminum – they said they used a heavier gauge than you.

Their lattice is a .024 vs ours at .018 (lighter), this is a non-structural part of the cover.  We use the same gauge roof pans or rafters.  Their header is a .040 gauge while ours is a .042 gauge (heavier)  this is a structural part of the cover.

The Ultra Lattice also uses a much heavier look of wood grain, similar to the old mobile home siding pattern, our wood grain is similar to that found on metal garage doors that come on many of the new houses.

It seemed that the sales guy was a bit too glib, I’m guessing that perhaps he
was a little loose with the facts.  Please give me your side of their
claims.

Thanks for the opportunity to respond.
 

Regards,

B. H.

–
Regards, Lori
lori@alumawood.com
1-888-alumawood
www.alumawood.com

Radiant Heat, insulated vs. standard

Question:
Quick question though, are the panels insulated at all or is that an option? It gets really hot in Henderson Nevada and I am concerned with radiant heat

Thank you

Answer:
The insulated panels were developed for patio room enclosures that would be conditioned with heat or A/C. This works well when walls are built and insulated also.

As for radient heat, the bottom of the standard Alumawood roof (ceiling) stays cool to the touch even in 110 degree heat, adding a insulated roof would not help in that case. The additional cost of the insulated roof panels (almost 1.5x’s) would not give you the desired results.

Many customers will add a ceiling fan to their solid covers, this helps circulate the air. When installing a ceiling fan be sure to order the optional fan beam, this supports the additional weight of the fan.

Another popular option to add to your Alumawood cover is cooling misters. These can be purchased at any hardware store.

I hope this helps answer your question and try to stay cool this summer!!

Regards, Bob