Archive for the ‘Tip & Ideas’ Category

Fan Beam install on existing solid patio

Finally, I read somewhere that if you want to install celling fans that a special bracket is required. Can this bracket be installed after the cover is installed?

No, we do not recommend this.
You want the L-bracket installed at the house as you build it, the fan beam is bolted to the L-bracket and into the header out at the posts. You will want to do this as you are building the cover and run the wiring. It can be done afterwards but is a hassle, you will need to put 4×8 sheets of plywood on top of the cover to distribute your weight. And be careful!! The covers are not designed to be walked on and we imply no guaranty here that it wouldn’t bend or collapse. We have been installing Alumawood for over 20 years and have never seen one collapse but I’m sure it would be possible.

Leveling the Header

Question:

• My patio concrete is not very level (long story).  Given that I have 3 header posts, they will have to be cut fairly exactly in order for all 3 posts to be flush against the bottom of the header and level.  Would you recommend putting up the posts first (without attaching at the base yet), then placing the header on top to see if they are level?  It seems difficult given that I can’t secure the posts until I’m sure they are the right size.  I don’t know how to tackle this.

lay out and install your post brackets.

Lay your header, (seam side down) next to it.

Use a speed square to transfer the post locations from the post brackets to the top (smooth or bottom side) of your header.

As you are doing this you can place a level on your header, have someone hold it level or shim it up.  Measure the difference at each post location and add this measurement to each post, respectively.  This will give you a straight and level post height.

Wind Loads

What can I do to “beef up” the design of an Alumawood Shade Structure to strengthen it against higher winds? 

Do you already have a cover you are wanting to improve or is this a new project?

A new project can simply be ordered for a 90 mph to a 110 mph wind load and will come with all necessary components.  The upgrade from  90 mph to 110 mph or higher includes some or all of the following, usually in this order:

1. decreased post spacing

2. increased roof pan gauge (thicker roof pans)

3. Doubling the header

4. concrete footings

5. steel or aluminum cloverleaf post inserts

6. steel C-beam header inserts

Along with these steps additional screws are also used and that’s about it!

Trying to “retro-fit” an existing cover would be difficult but not impossible.  Additional posts and screws is the first step.  Any further steps would involve disassembling the cover and replacing or adding parts.

Our engineering, available to download on our “Resources” page , has all the information for these spans, gauges and connections.  Anything out of the scope of our engineering will require “Site Specific” engineering, a free service for customers buying new Alumawood shade structures from us.

I trust this answers your question, please feel free to email or call us anytime.Regards, Bob

Low height at house attachment

PROBLEM:
The roof eaves are very low on my house.  With a 12ft projection and  ½” drop per foot I will need 6″ of fall. This will make the header at the edge of the concrete slab  too low.
what other options are there?
SOLUTION:

There are a few options available and a few things to consider when you are faced with a low attachment height at the house.
You will need a minimum of 6′-8″ clearance under the header, 6′-6″ is allowed with some building authorities, usually you just have to ask.

Laguna Lattice covers are easiest to work with when you have a low mounting height at the house for two reasons:
1. You do not need 1/2″ per foot of fall for rain runoff
2. You may “reverse mount” the header, putting it on top of the rafters and “hanging” them from the header.

The Newport Solid covers must have fall for the rain to run off and the header must be placed under the roof pans.

When calculating the fall for the solid roof at 1/2″ per foot you need to take into account the fall of the concrete, usually 1/4″ per foot, but this slope may vary greatly from job to job.  This can be added into the equation to gain your minimum slope of 1/2″ per foot.

You can simply use one of the side rafters, place it perpendicular to the house with one end touching the house (for an eave attachment place the rafter at the appropriate distance from the wall).  Place a level on top of the rafter and lift the rafter until it is level.  Measure your slabs “fall” at the post location.  Subtract this number from the total fall needed.

ex. If you have an 7′-6′ high wall attachment (bottom of Alumawood roof) and a cover with a 15′ projection then your posts will be somewhere between 14′-6″ and 13′.  For this example we will mount the posts at 14′. We will need 7″ of fall from the attachment at the house to the posts and header.  If we have 1/4″ of fall on our concrete slab then we have 3-1/2″ of fall in the slab and we will only need an additional 3-1/2″ of fall for the cover itself.  We also need to deduct 8″ for the header.  8″ + 3-1/2″ = 11-1/2″.
Our height at the wall of 7′-6″ – 11-1/2″ = 6′-6-1/2″ which is a bit low.
We can substitute a double 2×6 header for the 3×8 header which will give us more headroom under the header.  6-1/2″ + 3-1/2″ = 10″.  7′-6″ – 10″ = 6′-8″ and this will work for our headroom.

The final option available its to roof mount the patio cover.

This is much easier on a composition shingle roof as opposed to a concrete or clay tile roof.  On a comp roof you simply mount 8″ L-brackets with lag bolts through the roofing into the house rafters.  The bolts will need to be sealed with roof mastic or similar. You then need to bend the leg of the L-bracket that is sticking up to a vertical position.  Your ledger board can then be mounted to these L-brackets and your patio cover attached to this.
On a tile roof we recommend have a roofing contractor install the L-brackets.
As always check the engineering, available at www.alumawood.com on the resources page.  There are limitations to all applications as specified in the engineering.
You may always email questions to info@alumawood.com

or call us at 1-888-alumawood (258-6296)

Damaged Shipping

In the unlikely case your Alumawood arrives damaged you will need to follow FedEx’s damage claim policies. These cam be viewed at:
fedexfreight.fedex.com/lossdamage_guide.pdf

One important thing to remember is promptness of any claim. We ask that you notify us ASAP but within 24 hours of delivery. When you sign the bill of lading you are acknowledging you have received the product in good condition. If there is damage then please have the driver note it on the bill of lading, all copies, and take receipt of the product. DO NOT return the entire shipment, we will replace any parts damaged as long as you follow FedEx’s instructions and policies.

Sometimes the damage may not be visible at the time of delivery. FedEx states:

Concealed Loss or Damage
These claims are considered and investigated as concealed loss or damage claims and will be handled based on their individual merits.
Concealed loss or damage is that which was not apparent at the time of delivery. The National Motor Freight Classification, ITEM 300135 (see
specific section below) states: “When damage to contents of a shipping container is discovered by the recipient which could not have been
determined at time of delivery, it must be reported by the recipient to the delivering carrier upon discovery and a request for inspection by the
carrier’s representative made. Notice of loss or damage and a request for inspection may be given by telephone or in person, but in either event must
be confirmed in writing by mail.”
Concealed damage should be reported to the carrier within 15 days of delivery. Inspection or waiver of inspection will be provided by FedEx Freight or
FedEx National LTL as promptly as possible and practicable after receipt of request by the recipient. However, should we waive inspection, the recipient
must make the inspection and record all information to the best of his or her ability pertinent to the cause.

To Ledger Board or not?

Question: Is it better to attach to a ledger board or direct to the wood siding wall?    Answer: The cover should be attached to SOLID wood (as in a header or rim joist inside the wall). Wood siding or plywood sheer panel is not sufficient. If solid wood is not available in the wall and you only have 2x studs @ 16″ o.c. then you should use a 2×8 wood ledger board, lag that into the studs every 16″, then attach your Alumawood rafters to the ledger board every 24″ o.c. or as engineering dictates. You should always check the engineering and instructions for your project prior to ordering.  The instructions and engineering are available for download on the “Resources” page at alumawood.com.Thank you, Bob

Does Alumawood look like real wood?

Often Alumawood™ shade structures are mistaken for real wood covers.  Here is a excerpt from a recent email we received.                                                                                                                                                                                                                ” my wife discovered your product some time ago.   I confess initial skepticism for the look but did the research for her anyway.  at a relative’s home recently i commented about the posts for the patio cover touching the ground and the problem with termites. He corrected me that termites don’t eat aluminum.  the look was not what I expected.”                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               Alumawood™ has an embossed wood grain texture stamped into the aluminum.  The paint finish is a weather-resistant, anticorrosive Aluma-Shield silicon polyester paint finish that withstands the harshest conditions, including sun, rain, wind, and extreme temperatures. This paint system was formulated for Amerimax.   

Connecting Columns

Question on decorative columns

“the directions provided with the columns appear to be for a load bearing application, without internal posts.”

Correct, These columns are designed to be load bearing, but our engineering does not allow connecting direct to the column.  You will have a 3″ post in the center of the column to carry the load of the cover.  Basically the cover will be attached to the 3″ posts just like a standard post application and the column will be slipped over the post to be an architectural element of the design.

When we design columns with a cover we always include a “double header” design.  This looks better than using the standard single header and matches up with the column cap much better. 

We also don’t like the connecting instructions that come with the columns. The suggest using small “L” brackets and screwing into the column and into the concrete.  This is not a good connection and I have seen many columns crack when attached like this.

I like to drill 1/4″ hole, four sides of the column (low enough so the base will cover it) and use four long sheet metal screws screwed into the 3″ post to hold the column in place.  At the top, four screws in the cap, each corner, to the header holds it there. I will also add expanding foam at the top and bottom of the column, this really locks it in. Be careful not to use too much, once I came back the next day after “foaming” the column and it had raised it 2″!!

Below is a page out of the engineering. 

 

 

 

Post Spacing and Overhangs

We have had many inquires regarding post spacing for our Alumawood patio covers. You may find the post spacing in the engineering on the “Resources” page at alumawood.com.

The maximum post spacing for an Alumawood patio cover varies depending on many factors. The projection of the cover, the overhang, the type of cover, the type of header being used, the snow and wind loads all effect the post spacing.

In the engineering the “Tributary Width” is used to calculate post spans, footing size gauges of aluminum needed, post type, etc. To calculate the Trib width you may use the chart found in the engineering on sheet 3 of 21 for the Newport (solid) or sheet 3 of 9 for the Laguna (lattice). Simply find your overall projection (that runs across the top of the chart) and the desired overhang past the posts and header (running down the left side of the chart) and find where they intersect on the chart, this is your “Trib Width”.

Once you find your Trib Width you go the the chart with your snow (or live) load, wind load and type of header. Standard covers are 10lb snow load and 90 mph wind load with a 0.042 x 3″ x 8″ box beam. Find this chart, find your trib width and your maximum post spacing is to the right of it.

You will find that many times, with the maximum post spacing, you will not need to set the post that far apart to work for your cover. You will have some “leeway” in placing your posts, just stay within the maximum post spans

You will also have leeway in determining the side overhang. This can never be more than 25% of the maximum post span. A 20′ post span can have a 5′ side overhang, whereas a 4′ post span will have only a 1′ side overhang.

Remember to take into account the aesthetics of your cover when determining the post placement of your Alumawood patio cover. The decorative Corbel and Scalloped ends look better with a 18″ overhang. If you are using large columns you may want even a 24″ overhang. Check out our picture gallery and notice some of the different overhangs.

Above – side overhang too short, projection too big?

Above – side overhang good, overhang (projection) too short

Above – nice balance of overhangs

Regards, Robert Pinnell
contact@alumawood.com
1-888-alumawood (258-6296)
www.alumawood.com

Wood Ledger boards

 

Hello,

I’m very interested in your DIY kit, but I do have a question. I saw the following comment on your website: “All of our DIY Kits come with all the material and hardware you will need to do the installation yourself. All you will need to provide is the labor and the tools”However, when I looked your installation instructions, the very first step was for installing a ledger board, which I’ll need. It gave a suggestion on what type of wood to use, which implied to me that it was not included in the kit. Which is correct? Does the kit come with all the material I’ll need or not?Thank you,K.D.Thank you for a great questionMany of the Lattice covers do not need a ledger board (ones attached to the fascia board and ones attached to the house where each rafter hanger can be bolted to solid wood @ 24″ on center, such as into a header over large windows or second floor joists) The Newport covers (solid) do not need ledger boards at all as their “Roll Form Hanger” is continous and lag bolts can be put anywhere needed to hit solid wood, usually every 16″.One option on the “Quick Quote” is “with ledger board” and yes you do supply the wood part of it. We could ship it but it would cost more for shipping than the price of the 2×8 board. If you need it shipped, we can arrange this for you. We provide an Alumawood wrap to cover the ledger board. There are other options besides the 2×8 ledger board, to see more options look at the other blogs on “Ledger Boards”.http://www.alumawood.com/blog/tip-ideas/wood-ledger-boards/Caulking comes with the solid covers. The ledger board should be caulked also, but we do not send caulking with a Lattice covers.  You will buy the caulking, lag bolts and ledger board if indeed you need a ledger board. All the other materials, hardware and fasteners are provided.Thank you again, Bob